Baltics - 18 June 2012 (1)

Into the Lithuanian Countryside

I woke up at 05.40 to a lovely view of Vilnius in the sunshine through our window.

There was a large crowd when we went down for breakfast as the restaurant wasn’t open yet, despite it being 07.00 already.  We didn’t have to wait for long though.  This time, we really had to watch out for the toaster cable as it was 8” above the floor and a major trip hazard.

Carving, Palūšė

Wooden Cross, Palūšė

With Dzintars restored after his compulsory rest day, we set off at 08.08 for our next adventure.

It didn’t take long before we had left Vilnius behind.  Instead of reading, I looked out of the window.  We were heading for Aukštaitija National Park and, although we were nowhere near the lakes yet, I saw quite a lot of water about, mostly rivers and ponds.  Much of the countryside was very different from the UK.  It was very wildlife friendly, with large grassy areas or wildflower meadows and only the occasional small field, no bigger than a football pitch.  The wildflowers included patches of solid blue, mostly lupins.  Lupins were also seen in the many wooded areas.  Later, there were also some patches of yellow and mauve flowers and the occasional splash of red poppies.  It was all very pretty and I was really glad that I had picked a holiday which wasn’t just restricted to the three Baltic capitals.

St Josph's Church, Palūšė

St Josph's Church, Palūšė

Eventually we reached Aukštaitija National Park and stopped at an information centre in Palūšė.  It was near to St Joseph’s Church, an old wooden church, set in its own fenced off yard, with a several carved wooden crosses and other sculptures.  The crosses were similar to the one we saw in Kaunas, with pagan influences.  Some of the sculptures were quite creepy.

Replica Ancient Hut, Palūšė

A man from the information office came out and opened up two nearby low, thatched huts.  One contained a replica of a burial, dating to around the 6^th century, and the other was a replica of an ancient home.

Typical House, Palūšė

Then we set off for our botanical walk.  Aija said that it would be an easy walk with no mud – I don’t do mud, especially in sandals.  The walk began with a steep climb and then got onto flat ground as promised.  Then we came to the first cut of a new road.  It was so new, that it hadn’t been there two weeks before when Aija did her previous trip.  The ground had been ploughed up, leaving furrows – of mud!  My feet and sandals went right in.

Lake Tauragnas, Aukštaitija National Park

Large Snail, Aukštaitija National Park

After the “fun” of the new road, there was a steep decline.  With my knee, I find it much harder going down than going up, but Charlie went in front and let me put my hand on his shoulder and Harry walked behind, keeping hold of the loop of my rucksack.  We probably looked a comical procession, but I didn’t fall or slip which was a relief.

Wild Lupins, Aukštaitija National Park

Aukštaitija National Park

At the end of the descent, there was a bit of mud and then the luxury of a boardwalk, built over a swamp.  The boardwalk had a short side diversion to a lookout over a lake.  Ian spotted some eggs in a nearby clump of reeds, but we didn’t see the mother or any other ducks.  We all took turns to look and our weight gradually depressed the boardwalk so that the lookout got covered in more and more water.

Aukštaitija National Park

Once off the boardwalk and back on dry land, May spotted a huge snail – our first wildlife.  Sue eventually moved it off the path so that no one would tread on it.  Soon after, we saw a frog.

Lake Tauragnas, Aukštaitija National Park

The walk was supposed to last until 12.00, but I got back to the meeting point at 11.40, having negotiated more mud and a steep ascent after crossing a stream.  While we waited for everyone to appear, I joined Susie in washing my feet in the lake.  It didn’t help much as I got sand and gravel on my feet as soon as I got out.  Luckily, I could replace my insect repellent which had been washed off, but the antihistamine gel was in my suitcase, so my legs began to itch from earlier bites.

Paddling in Lake Tauragnas

Craig was the last person to appear – at 12.00 exactly.  Ever the loner, he had tried to do the walk in the opposite direction, but had gone the wrong way when the path branched with no green route markers, so he didn’t bump into us halfway as planned.

Lunchtime Visitor

We drove the short distance to Ignalina, where we had lunch on the balcony of Zuvedra Viesbutis Restoranas, overlooking another lake.  A black headed gull sat on the railing on the corner behind a large plant and yelled at any passing gulls to keep off.  I gave him a piece of May’s unwanted pancake.  With the meal, I was able to use up the last of my Litas, except for a few coins for souvenirs.  I think most people did the same as there was a lot of loose change on the trays taken to the cashier.