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Traditional Latvian Crafts

Traditional Toilet

Aivars Making a Jug

Next stop was a ceramicist who made pots in the traditional way.  He was called Aivars and his wife was Vasma.  They seemed to do everything – not just pots – in the traditional way, living on a site which resembled a film set of rural life in the middle ages (without the cameras – except ours).  I don’t think there was electricity or plumbing – if the toilet was anything to go by.

The Manual Potter's Wheel

Aivars took us into his workshop and showed us his potter’s wheel.  This was a construction of two wheels on one axle.  A large stone wheel lay near the ground, where he could kick it to get the smaller potter’s wheel turning.  It obviously helped that Aivars was a very muscular man, who could provide the necessary manpower to operate the wheel for extended periods.  He threw a jug to demonstrate his skill.

Traditional Kiln

Then we were taken to the kiln, which uses wood as a fuel source.  The pots are just piled on top of each other.  Aivars said this was possible as the pots were not glazed.  Broken pots go on the top to keep the heat in.  He said that, when the kiln was in full burn, the flames out the top were one metre high.

Traditional Pots for Sale

There was the inevitable shop, but it was not that expensive.  You could buy a wind chime for LVL3.50.  Vasma did pictures, especially of fish.  Craig bought four or these.  He also made chain mail and traditional bronze jewellery.  Aija dressed up in the full traditional outfit for photos.

Aija in Traditional Dress

Aija in Traditional Dress

We were each charged LVL1.00 for the site visit and demonstration.

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Aglona

Aglona Basilica

We joined the ranks of the great and good and stopped to visit the Aglona Basilica.  This is a Catholic church and monastery and site of an annual pilgrimage.

Holy Spring of Aglona

It was constructed next to a famous spring which was once claimed to have healing powers, until the structure of the water changed.  I tried some of the water, but it didn’t work, not that I had anything which needed curing.

White Wagtail, Aglona

As I walked to the lake next to the site, I found that my path was blocked by a flood.  There was no way round as the grass was full of water too.  Just as I realised I would have to turn back, a white wagtail came down to drink.

Lake Aglonas

Wild Flowers, Lake Aglonas

The walk to the lake was worth it as it was very picturesque with water lilies and a large family of tiny ducklings.  I walked right round the basilica before heading back to the bus.  Those people who had been inside said that it was full of wooden scaffolding and didn’t seem that impressed.

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Return to Latvia

Daugavpils Town Crest in Flowers

Then it was back on the bus, with the next stop across the border in Daugavpils.  I was asleep when Aija announced that we were crossing the border back into Latvia.  I’d fallen asleep again when we entered Daugavpils and it was very hard to keep my eyes open during the drive round city tour.  I remember Aija pointing out the railway.  Her aunt was kept in a railway carriage here before being deported along with many other people, so it was an important place for her.  I woke up fully when we passed a fountain in a central park area.

Recommended for Hot Chocolate

Tram in Daugavpils

We parked up near the town centre and most people headed to the supermarket to change their money.  I had changed enough for both journeys through Latvia, so I went across the road to the Sokoladna Kafeinica for a hot chocolate.  It was wonderful – just like the one I’d had the first night in Riga – and came in a small cup.  It only cost LVL1.50.  The café was full of ladies who lunch, indulging in coffee, sorbets,fruit, ice-cream and cake – as well as chocolate.

Our Bus and Tram in Daugavpils

Sts Boris & Gleb Orthodox Cathedral

Then I walked further up the road.  This was a bustling shopping centre, with a couple of malls.  I got as far as a church, but took a photo of a tram instead.  There were some nice flower arrangements around the town.

As we drove out of town, Aija pointed out an area with four churches, including a very pretty Russian Orthodox church.

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Into the Lithuanian Countryside

I woke up at 05.40 to a lovely view of Vilnius in the sunshine through our window.

There was a large crowd when we went down for breakfast as the restaurant wasn’t open yet, despite it being 07.00 already.  We didn’t have to wait for long though.  This time, we really had to watch out for the toaster cable as it was 8” above the floor and a major trip hazard.

Carving, Palūšė

Wooden Cross, Palūšė

With Dzintars restored after his compulsory rest day, we set off at 08.08 for our next adventure.

It didn’t take long before we had left Vilnius behind.  Instead of reading, I looked out of the window.  We were heading for Aukštaitija National Park and, although we were nowhere near the lakes yet, I saw quite a lot of water about, mostly rivers and ponds.  Much of the countryside was very different from the UK.  It was very wildlife friendly, with large grassy areas or wildflower meadows and only the occasional small field, no bigger than a football pitch.  The wildflowers included patches of solid blue, mostly lupins.  Lupins were also seen in the many wooded areas.  Later, there were also some patches of yellow and mauve flowers and the occasional splash of red poppies.  It was all very pretty and I was really glad that I had picked a holiday which wasn’t just restricted to the three Baltic capitals.

St Josph's Church, Palūšė

St Josph's Church, Palūšė

Eventually we reached Aukštaitija National Park and stopped at an information centre in Palūšė.  It was near to St Joseph’s Church, an old wooden church, set in its own fenced off yard, with a several carved wooden crosses and other sculptures.  The crosses were similar to the one we saw in Kaunas, with pagan influences.  Some of the sculptures were quite creepy.

Replica Ancient Hut, Palūšė

A man from the information office came out and opened up two nearby low, thatched huts.  One contained a replica of a burial, dating to around the 6^th century, and the other was a replica of an ancient home.

Typical House, Palūšė

Then we set off for our botanical walk.  Aija said that it would be an easy walk with no mud – I don’t do mud, especially in sandals.  The walk began with a steep climb and then got onto flat ground as promised.  Then we came to the first cut of a new road.  It was so new, that it hadn’t been there two weeks before when Aija did her previous trip.  The ground had been ploughed up, leaving furrows – of mud!  My feet and sandals went right in.

Lake Tauragnas, Aukštaitija National Park

Large Snail, Aukštaitija National Park

After the “fun” of the new road, there was a steep decline.  With my knee, I find it much harder going down than going up, but Charlie went in front and let me put my hand on his shoulder and Harry walked behind, keeping hold of the loop of my rucksack.  We probably looked a comical procession, but I didn’t fall or slip which was a relief.

Wild Lupins, Aukštaitija National Park

Aukštaitija National Park

At the end of the descent, there was a bit of mud and then the luxury of a boardwalk, built over a swamp.  The boardwalk had a short side diversion to a lookout over a lake.  Ian spotted some eggs in a nearby clump of reeds, but we didn’t see the mother or any other ducks.  We all took turns to look and our weight gradually depressed the boardwalk so that the lookout got covered in more and more water.

Aukštaitija National Park

Once off the boardwalk and back on dry land, May spotted a huge snail – our first wildlife.  Sue eventually moved it off the path so that no one would tread on it.  Soon after, we saw a frog.

Lake Tauragnas, Aukštaitija National Park

The walk was supposed to last until 12.00, but I got back to the meeting point at 11.40, having negotiated more mud and a steep ascent after crossing a stream.  While we waited for everyone to appear, I joined Susie in washing my feet in the lake.  It didn’t help much as I got sand and gravel on my feet as soon as I got out.  Luckily, I could replace my insect repellent which had been washed off, but the antihistamine gel was in my suitcase, so my legs began to itch from earlier bites.

Paddling in Lake Tauragnas

Craig was the last person to appear – at 12.00 exactly.  Ever the loner, he had tried to do the walk in the opposite direction, but had gone the wrong way when the path branched with no green route markers, so he didn’t bump into us halfway as planned.

Lunchtime Visitor

We drove the short distance to Ignalina, where we had lunch on the balcony of Zuvedra Viesbutis Restoranas, overlooking another lake.  A black headed gull sat on the railing on the corner behind a large plant and yelled at any passing gulls to keep off.  I gave him a piece of May’s unwanted pancake.  With the meal, I was able to use up the last of my Litas, except for a few coins for souvenirs.  I think most people did the same as there was a lot of loose change on the trays taken to the cashier.

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Evening in Vilnius

I used the hotel internet for a bit and then May and I got ready to hit the town again for a meal.  As we left, we ran into Ian and Sue coming back.  Ian asked us to wait 15 minutes, so we did.  Then the four of us walked back to Vilnius gatve and started to look for somewhere to eat.

St George & Dragon on Vilnius Building

When we got to the town hall, we heard a jazz band playing outside.  The piece they were playing was a bit discordant, but then the drummer did a solo which was very good.  As Ian is very fond of live music, we stopped to listen.  A girl sang “Funny Valentine”.  She had a very good voice, as did another girl who sang “Smoke Gets in Your Eyes”.  The band finished with “When the Saints Go Marching In” and seemed to be having a lot of fun.  We all felt that it was good timing to have arrived when we did as we all enjoyed it, especially Ian.

Young Musicians outside Town Hall

While we listened, I noticed the Sky restaurant coming back to earth.  The diners wore harnesses and were put on board, as were their dinners, which were kept under cloches, and then it went back up again.  Later, Ian saw them just come down for desert before going back up.  We walked past the entrance and saw that a meal was LTL300 per person or LTL500 for two people.  There were no vegetarian options.

So we went to Amatininkų užeiga, further down the square, and sat outside.  As we were given the menus, David and Dulcie materialised, so they joined us.  They had spent the afternoon visiting all the churches we had walked past during our morning tour.  They must have been very busy!  Then Ann appeared.  She and Bob were in the same restaurant but in the seating in the middle of the square.  They had nearly finished their meal so didn’t join us.

Amatininkų užeiga Sign

I had tomato pancakes with vegetables, which included artichoke, which was very nice.  I drank water and finished with a chocolate cake and coffee and it came to LTL33.  Dulcie ate all her meal too, but I don’t think the others were over-impressed.

Then we all walked back.  It was good to have a chance to chat to David.  Unfortunately, I had to rush back as we neared the hotel.  Aija was sitting outside with a friend.  I said “hello” as I dashed past, but the others stopped and chatted.

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Afternoon in Vilnius

It was now lunchtime.  Some people immediately dashed off to find somewhere to eat, but I stayed to go to the place recommended by Geirdre.  On the way up Gedimino prospektas, a few more people fell by the wayside, so only Craig, Sarah, May, Janet, Roberta, Aija and I ended up eating in Cili, one of a chain of restaurants.  I had green gnocchi with sour cream sauce, which was quite nice, and a peach juice, which came to just LTL10.90.

After lunch, there were further drop offs until only Sarah and I were left for Aija to point out the entrance to the Museum of Genocide Victims.  Not surprisingly, Aija didn’t go in.  One visit is quite enough for anyone and I wondered how the guides taking groups around the museum managed to cope.

River Neris

The museum covered much of what was in the Museum of Occupation in Riga, with the added twist of actually being in the old KGB prison.  You could see just how grim it was and read about the torture and appalling treatment of the inmates.  I hadn’t realised how long people held out, living in the forests and trying to resist the Soviet occupation after WWII.

River Neris

While I was walking round, reading the many displays, I bumped into Charlie, Ian and Sue, who had dashed off for a quick lunch.  Despite that, I left the museum on my own and decided to head back to the hotel.

I walked diagonally across a park and came out just up from the White Bridge.  This is a bridge for pedestrians and cyclists only.  As I walked across, someone was announcing the results of a volleyball competition taking place on a court to the right just below me.  Belarus won.

Shopping Centre and Commercial Area

I went into the shopping centre and found a Maxima supermarket, where I bought some much needed water.  The day had turned out very hot.  I took the opportunity to browse some shoe shops, but didn’t find any in the style I wanted.

This was a real shame as, when I got back to the hotel, I looked at my shoes which had got so wet in Tartu.  I found that I could put my finger in the hole where the sole had become separate from the upper.  So they had to go in the bin.

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Vilnius City Tour Continues

Replicas of Four Guild Buildings

Abandandoned Kittens

We walked up a small hill, from the top of which we got some good views of the city.  While we were taking photos, I noticed a lady who was walking two dogs.  The dogs had found two small, abandoned kittens, so the lady covered them with newspaper to keep them warm and placed them on a seat so they would be more comfortable.  Then she rang a rescue agency and told us she would wait until they came.  As someone who does a lot of fundraising work for the local RSPCA rescue home in York, it was lovely to know that there were also people and organisations here who cared about animals.

Remnant of Vilnius City Walls

Gate of Dawn, Vilnius

Further along the path was a tiny remnant of the old city walls.  Then we continued our climb and emerged opposite the Gate of Dawn, which Geirdre said was the only remaining gate to the city.

We went through the gate and passed under the chapel which houses the painting of “Our Lady of the Gate of Dawn”.  This is a very famous and much venerated painting and we could see people queuing up to see it.

Jewish Quarter, Vilnius

First Private Hotel, Jewish Quarter, Vilnius

We walked down the hill, passing several more churches – a 16^th century Russian Orthodox church; the Italianate church of St Teresa; the Basilian gates leading to the Uniates Church of the Holy Trinity; and finally St Casimir’s Church – and came out into familiar territory, next to the Town Hall.

Vilnius University Courtyard

Door, University Library

Then Geirdre led us into the Jewish Quarter of the city.  Vilnius had a large population of Jews prior to WWII, but the vast majority were murdered during the war.  Now an ageing remnant remains, trying to preserve its heritage.  Now most of the buildings have different uses – Geidre pointed out one which housed the first private owned hotel set up after independence from Russia.

Presidential Palace, Vilnius

Begonias outside Presidential Palace

This corner of the city also held some university buildings.  We went into the courtyard in front of the library and astronomy department.  The library had some wonderfully ornate doors.

Square of Wishes, Vilnius

The presidential palace was just round the corner.  I was particularly impressed with the begonias outside.

The final stop on our tour was outside the cathedral.  Geidre took us to the square of wishes, one of the many tiles in the cathedral square.  The human chain linking Vilnius, Riga and Talinn is said to have begun from this square.

More Churches of Vilnius

Church of the Ascension

Church of St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist

Chapel of Our Lady of the Gate of Dawn

Russian Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit

Church of St. Theresa

Basilian Gate to Holy Trinity Church