Southern India - 7 February 2012 (2)

Brihadeeswara Temple

Gopuram Brihadeeswara Temple

Vimana Brihadeeswara Temple

Eventually we crossed a bridge over the River Kauveri and got our first view of Brihadeeswara Temple.  Yesterday’s temple in Mylapore was dominated by two very tall gopurams at the entrances.  This temple was dominated by a very tall central vimana above the Inner Sanctum or Holy of Holies at the centre of the temple.  Lukose said that the high gopurams and vimanas date back to when temples had to be visible from a great distance, so people could find them.  Brihadeeswara temple is made of sandstone.  Like Kapaleeswarar Temple, the temple was covered in intricate carvings.  Unlike Kapaleeswarar Temple, the carvings were not painted.

Elephant in Temple Entrance

The bus found a parking area and we had to risk life and limb crossing the busy road to the temple.  As we went through the first gate, I found myself saying "Wow!" because the carvings were so impressive.  We had to remove our shoes before proceeding through the second gate.  As we waited for everyone to get ready, we watched an elephant, which stood just inside the first gate.  His job was to give blessings by rubbing his trunk on people’s heads.  One lady held her young son up for a blessing but he didn’t enjoy it at all.  People were gathered round to have their photo taken with the elephant as well as queuing for their blessing.  It was sad that the elephant was shackled.

Temple Carving Detail

Temple Carving Ganesh

Many of the carvings on the temple were of plump voluptuous figures and there were Nandi bulls on the inner wall.  The courtyard inside the temple was huge and mostly empty space, some of which was covered in grass.  The first structure housed a large Nandi bull which was being dressed ready for a celebration.  His much smaller brother was in a tiny shrine nearby.

Small Nandi Bull

Large Nandi Bull Dressed-Up

While I was climbing the steps to the central platform, an elderly lady came up to me and congratulated me on how smart I looked.  This stunned me because I was a long way from feeling smart.  I never aimed to look smart, often wearing t-shirts which would be discarded en route because I would never wear them at home.  My skirts were also not the sort I would wear at home, being very long to hide my legs and not offend anyone.  Perhaps her comment was because I was probably the only European woman wearing a skirt.

Gopurams Brihadeeswara Tem

Shrine Brihadeeswara Temple

After the Nandi bull we went into one of the shrines and then into the Inner Sanctum.  In most temples, non-Hindus are not allowed to proceed this far, but this was an exception.  Inside the first shrine, which was dedicated to a female god, a man gave blessings by marking people’s foreheads.

Family in Temple

Throughout our visit, we could hear chanting.  When we emerged from the Inner Sanctum, the chanting sounded like a very young child.  I walked around the back to find a very welcome breeze.  I walked on towards a pavilion and, when I got close, I realised that this was the source of the chanting.  A lot of people were gathered inside and there was a stage with a microphone.  Two young children had the microphone and their chanting was obviously well received judging by the applause when they finished.

Male Worshippers in Temple

As we walked around the temple, we were frequently accosted by people who wanted us to take their photo or who wanted to take ours.  The last was a group of bare-chested men wearing turquoise sarongs.  I had noticed them when we first entered the temple and assumed they were there for an important ritual.  Whatever the reason for their all being dressed the same way, they were very happy to pose for our photos.  Reg, Pam, Steve and I even joined them for a group shot.

Parrot and Nandi Bull

As well as the chanting, I had heard a squawking parrot nearby.  I was pleased to spot one on a dead tree just outside the wall.  As I stood in the courtyard, trying to zoom in on him to take a photo, I realised that my feet were starting to burn on the hot red bricks.  I made sure to keep to the granite paths on the way back to the gopuram as these were not so hot.