Tunisia - 14 October 2010 (2)

Back in Tunis

We loaded our cases through the bus windows and set off for Tunis.  We reached the hotel very quickly.  Lotfi stopped as close as he could and then told us to be quick as he passed the cases back out through the window while drivers leant on their horns in the cars behind.

So, here we were, back at the Maison D’Orée, with its horrible musty smells and lurid red satin bedcovers.  Anne and Robin were quite adamant that they did not want a room at the back of the hotel again.  We were not so canny.  Caroline was first to reach the room.  She took one look and locked it up again.  They had given us a double bed.  Ruth appeared just as we turned to head back down to the lobby and we swapped rooms because she had twin beds in hers.

During the ride to the hotel, Ruth gave us a pick up time for the next morning, but Lotfi immediately changed it to 10.30 or even 11.00.  The flight was at 13.25 and this seemed far too late, even despite our experiences in Heathrow.  We were not happy that Ruth had given in so easily and started to think about getting taxis to make sure we arrived in time.

Green Dome in Tunis Medina

After dumping our stuff, we headed off en masse to the medina to do some souvenir shopping.  Compared with Cairo, it was lovely and cool as the sky was overcast.  We set off at a cracking pace.  We stopped for drinks just before we reached the medina and were definitely overcharged.  The waiter said it would be D27.000 for the seven of us!  We stupidly did not ask for a detailed bill and just scraped together D4.000 each and paid up.

Another Green Dome in Tunis Medina

Unfortunately, we continued our cracking pace when we got inside the medina and did not have time to browse if we were to keep up with the others.  It was not a very successful shopping spree.  Most of the souvenirs were a bit tacky and, although I liked the pashminas, I hardly ever wear the ones I have already.  It was not long before we found ourselves on the far side of the medina, so we walked outside a short way and went back in.  We had stumbled into an area with no shops.  The houses all seemed to have blue doors, some decorated with silver studs.  This time we slowed down and allowed Vic to take photos of almost every door – or at least it seemed like that.  We were torn between wanting to head back to the shops and continuing our exploration.  Vic won out against Anne and we continued into some very untouristy territory.  As it grew dark, we came to another gate and left the medina.

We had emerged onto a very lively road, the Rue Al Jazira, which was full of normal, non-touristy shops.  We walked a long way and, after a while, Vic lost his nerve and felt that he needed to ask for directions.  I was called in to translate.  No need to worry, we were going in the right direction: we had just veered a long way to the south when we were inside the medina.

At last we reached the Bab el Bahr, the gate which stood outside the entrance to the medina and led to the Avenue de France and then the Avenue Habib Bourguiba.  Heuly said that there were more places to eat on the left, so we crossed over and walked down that side.  There were quite a few coffee houses, but we saw no restaurants, until Vic and I were called back because Heuly, Anne and Robin had spotted somewhere, which we had walked right past.  The friendly waiter sat us outside and took our order.  I went for omelette and chips with my usual citronade to drink.  They brought out some harissa paste to eat with the bread while we were waiting.  Only Vic and I were able to eat it, because it was so hot, but we really enjoyed it and tucked in.  The shortage of dinar meant that Robin had to pay with dollars.  I think the waiter offered a poor exchange rate - $21=D19.000.  My omelette was D8.000, a bit more than had been quoted on the menu, but not bad considering.  After we had paid, I had to dash to the hotel, but the others went for another walk and a coffee.

I was nearly falling asleep by the time Caroline came back.  This was quite a feat, because some of the hotel guests were very noisy and the tram line ran right next to our window.  I understood why Anne and Robin had demanded a room elsewhere after experiencing the tram on their first stay in the hotel.

I had asked at reception and they said that it was both easy and cheap to get a bus to the airport, but Caroline said that they had bumped into Ruth and an experienced guide while having coffee and he had said there was no need to worry about being late for our flight.

Caroline opened the window, but the mosquitoes must have been lining up outside and came in straight away.  These were the first mosquitoes we had encountered on our tour, which had been surprisingly free of biting insects.  She dug out her mosquito zapper, but they were already in the bathroom and I could hear one buzzing above my ear when I lay in bed.  Now there were three things to keep me awake: the mosquitos, the tram and my tummy.  Luckily the noisy guests had fallen silent, but then someone began to sing underneath the window and others revved up their motorbikes.  I pulled the sheet over my head for protection against mosquitoes, but forwent my vegetarian principles and squashed two while I was in the bathroom.   The tram stopped at 02.00 and started again at 04.00.  I found the rumble strangely comforting after a while.