Libya - 4 October 2010

Leptis Magna

Several of us were falling apart the next morning.  Caroline felt ill and Anne did not come down to breakfast.  I just ate a yoghourt and drank two green teas.  We finished packing and got on the bus to head to Leptis Magna.

Arch of Septimus Severus

Detail on Arch

We were now at our full complement.  In addition to Mahmoud and Darak, our driver, we now had Ali who was responsible for security.  Mahmoud explained that it was a requirement for all groups of more than four people.  I am not sure whether Ali was there for our security or for the security of the Libyan people or the Gaddafi regime.  He appeared unarmed, but perhaps he could kill a man with his bare hands.  Ali did not speak English and maintained his air of mystery by not saying much.  When we got on the bus, Mahmoud returned our passports.  He had taken them to register us with the authorities.  They now contained an extra stamp, which was essential if we wanted to be let out of the country at the Egyptian border.

Hadrianic Baths

It was not that long before we reached Leptis Magna.  There were several stalls and shops near to the entrance and some well maintained toilets, with a very diligent attendant.  We had to leave all our bags on the bus, which made it difficult to give him his tip because I did not have any pockets.

Palaestra beside Hadrianic Baths

Our guide on the site was also called Mahmoud.  He looked quite young but said that he had been doing tours for four years.  He had a large book with him, containing diagrams, maps and photos which he used to illustrate his tour.  The first stop was the triumphal arch of Septimus Severus, which had been fully restored by the Italians.  Leptis Magna is a wonderful site and covers a large area, but so much of it remains to be restored.

Hadrianic Baths

We turned right and headed for the baths and the adjacent palaestra.  We had just reached the caledarium when I realised that I had to run.  With a quick word to Barry, I dashed back to the entrance as fast as I could and risked the wrath of the loo attendant by walking right past him.  At least the loos were clean and fully equipped.  Then I went back to the coach.  It was open because Anne had remained on board, so I was able to sleep on the back seat.

Mahmoud the Guide in the Tepidarium

When the others came back, I joined them and had some mango juice.  Armed with my handbag, I was able to give the loo attendant a fairly sizeable tip on my next visit, so he was happy.  The tour continued on to the nearby site with the amphitheatre and hippodrome, but I really needed to go to the hotel so I stayed on the bus.

When Caroline arrived in the hotel, she had bought me a bitter lemon.  It was very fizzy, so was difficult to drink, but it had lots of sugar, which I probably needed.  I slept pretty well for most of the afternoon and most of the night as well.