Penguin Travels: 8 India

Day 9 – Agra and the Deserted City

I got up at 4.00 to vacate the bathroom before Jill woke up, but then had to mooch around the lobby until everyone else had gathered for the sunrise trip to the Taj Mahal.

We were back in the tuk tuks and had our first near miss before we had really left the hotel. Our driver tried to sneak through the gap in the central reservation immediately opposite the hotel and was nearly crushed by a coach. But we survived yet again.

The Taj was supposed to change colour with the sunrise, so we stayed at the top and waited and kept clicking. At least the Taj had its full complement of 4 minarets and I did capture its reflection in the water which runs from the base of the Taj to where we were standing, just in front of the entrance gate.

I spotted a kingfisher on the top of one of the trees growing alongside the water channel leading to the Taj. It flew onto one of the fountains, which were not working yet. It made a good fishing perch. Lots of parrots and mynahs flew past, returning from their roosts and black kites circled on the growing thermals.

Main Part of the Taj

Dome of the Taj with Small Rings

Bob and I walked down to where we stood the evening before and then headed for the Taj itself. We had to leave our shoes to the left of the base. There were far fewer people than the evening before, so we were able to climb to the base of the Taj and then enter the hall where the tombs of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal lie behind a marble lattice. Someone was busy cleaning the lattice with a feather duster. For the most part, the atmosphere in the room was hushed, but some people were flagrantly ignoring the “no photo” signs and taking photos even here. Nearly everyone seemed to be taking photos in the outer rooms, capturing the floral decorations on the marble walls. Eventually some guards came by and put a stop to the photographers.

Agra Fort from the Taj

Activity on the River

Bob and I wandered around outside and headed for the back of the plinth to see the river. We could see the fort in the mist and a group of people were unloading a rowing boat on the bank. A parrot was sitting on one of the spot lights and there were several in a tree just behind the Taj. I suspect the parrots are a problem because I noticed a few of them on a minaret, pecking away at a wooden shutter.

Taj through the Fountains

Gatehouse and Fountains

While we were looking towards the gatehouse at the far end of the water channel, the fountains began to splutter as the water was turned on. This meant more photo opportunities during our leisurely walk back. When we reached the gatehouse, I wandered round to watch the parrots climbing on the scaffolding to the left of the building.

Then it was time to head back to our tuk tuks and the hotel for breakfast. I was very hungry.

It was still only 10.00 when we got into cars for a drive to Fatehpur Sikri, the deserted city built by Akbar and used as his capital from 1572-1585. Akbar was called Akbar the Great as he grew and consolidated the Mughal Empire during his 49 year reign. He encouraged religious tolerance and marriage between Hindus and Moslems, removed taxes on non-Muslims and showed a real interest in other faiths, including Jainism, Sikhism and Christianity. He tried to create a new religion, the Divine Faith, taking the best bits of all the other religions. It did not catch on and he was forced to fight his half-brother who declared a fatwa on him for his blasphemy. Akbar had several wives and many concubines, but no heir. He sought the help of a Sufi holy man called Shaikh Salim Chisti of Sikri, who predicted that he would have three sons. When his first son was born, Akbar felt he had to build something in tribute to the holy man and so contructed a new city and the nearby mosque which includes a shrine to the Saint. After several years, there was a problem with the water supply and Akbar’s son was showing signs of unrest, so Akbar abandoned the city and retreated to the fort in Agra.

(Much of the above was abridged from:http://www.boloji.com/history/011.htm if you want to read more.)

Intrepid Diver

We walked toward the main palace complex, which was similar architecture to the outside of Agra fort and also built in red sandstone. We went to see one of the water tanks within the palace and a man dived and then jumped in. It was a long way down, so he was braver than I. He ran up to us afterwards to get some financial reward for his feat. While we were watching him, I saw the only vulture on the trip, circling overhead. He was so much bigger than the ubiquitous black kites, who were also flying above. It is so sad that the vultures have suffered such a catastrophic fall in numbers and I do hope that current efforts are able to save them from extinction.

Decorations resembling Elephant Trunks

The palace was another maze, with us walking from courtyard to courtyard, just like in the fort. We visited the buildings of the Diwan-i-klaas, the treasury or astrologers seat. They were very elaborately carved throughout, with some brackets resembling elephants’ trunks. There was a lot of lattice work, to make the building seem cool and light.

Panch Mahal

Anup Talao

By now, it was exceedingly hot, so we slowly crossed the courtyard to the Turkish Sultana Pavillion, which was even more ornate. The pavillion sat on one edge of a pond, called the Anup Talao. A very attractive building, called the Panch Mahal sat on the opposite side of the courtyard. It has five storeys, but no outer walls and so you can see right through it. The floors are all supported by very ornate columns. Apparently Akbar used to sit on a balcony to watch entertainments on and around the Anup Talao below. Unfortunately, we were not allowed in the Panch Mahal, probably because it is so delicate. The Anup Talao was quite large, with a central stage structure, reachable by four paths going across the water. One of those paths led straight into a large building with columned terraces. We went inside and were shown Akbar’s bed. It was very high to prevent assassination, but looked exceedingly uncomfortable. I presume there were mattresses and cushions when it was in use – and something to stop him falling out of bed in the night. Rafeeq led us into a dark adjacent room to show us a bat roost. We did not stay long as we did not want to disturb them too much.

Building in the Second Courtyard

Royal Bed

We were allowed free time to explore, but most of us just sat in the shade and enjoyed the views of the Anup Talao and Panch Mahal. Then we were led into another courtyard. This included the Johabai Palace, where Akbar’s Hindu wife and mother of his first son lived. She had a separate kitchen so that vegetarian food could be prepared for her. The palace included winter and summer quarters. We wondered round the courtyard and visited all the buildings and were then led away, towards the mosque, the Jami Masjid.

Inside the Jami Masjid

Shrine to Sufi Saint

We had to take our shoes off before we entered the mosque. It was easy to see why it was paved with white marble, because it was quite painful to walk on the hot darker surfaces outside. The inside of the mosque complex was mostly just a large courtyard, but the right hand wall was broken by the ornate shrine to the Sufi Saint. We were allowed to go in the shrine, but had to cover our heads. An old man with a stick gave us rather fetching plastic vegetable baskets to use. I thought he was an official, but he continued to trail us when we left the shrine and even when we left the mosque, asking for money. He chased two young boys away and one of them ran onto my finger. I hope I did not hurt him as my finger was level with his head.

On the way back to the cars, we were taken to shops which were apparently set up to help the poor people of the area and give them work to do. I bought two marble elephants, but I think I was ripped off, although there were similar ones in the hotel shops for a similar price.

Driving back to the hotel we passed pigs running wild and some water buffalo enjoying a bath in a pool beside the road. As we drove, vehicles frequently passed on both sides. I fell asleep so missed any further drama.

Our Tuk Tuk Driver

We had a free afternoon, so when I got back to the hotel I went in a shop to check the price of their elephants and was cajoled into buying some coasters as a present. Then I went for coffee and another muffin at Costas and used the time to get my journal back up to date. I decided to go to the foreign exchange place across the road, but as I tried to cross, our tuk tuk driver came up and insisted he take me there. The road was busy, but not that busy and I am sure I could have made it far more safely on my own, given the near miss earlier, but I hopped in. We made it across the road unscathed and I change my money. I only got Rs72/£1 so it was not much better than in the hotel. The tuk tuk driver was so sweet. He was always smiling, but walked with a bad limp. The tuk tuk was very important to him. He took me back across the road and asked if we were going out tonight. I said that we would be going out at 1830, but that Rafeeq was in charge of the transport. When we went for dinner I looked for him, but we were told that he was on another job.

Dinner was at the Taj Mahal restaurant again and most of us went this time. The main absentee was Bob who was not feeling well. I had given him some of my restorative decaffeinated Tetley T-bags, which he said helped a bit.

There was a party of young children at the restaurant, wearing wonderful pointy hats. We joined in when they sang Happy Birthday and were rewarded with some birthday cake. It was a lovely atmosphere. Ken said that he wished that he had some children that age.

We went to bed as soon as we got back from the restaurant, but I read for a long time before falling asleep.

Animal Corner